One of the nice people I met was April. We got to talking about using oxygen absorbers in plastic buckets. I thought I had read somewhere that you could use them. When I came home I checked out the Provident Living website that states it's "not an effective treatment method." (Oops.) Here's the link for more information regarding oxygen absorbers at www.providentliving.org:
"What types of containers can be used with oxygen absorbers for food storage?
Oxygen absorbers should be used with containers that provide an effective barrier against moisture and oxygen. The following containers work well:
• Metal cans with seamed lids.
• Foil pouches (such as those provided by Church home storage centers and available from ldscatalog.org).
• PETE plastic bottles with airtight, screw-on lids.
• Glass canning jars with metal lids that have gaskets.
Oxygen absorbers are not an effective treatment method for plastic buckets, milk bottles, or other types of plastic bottles not identified as PETE or PET under the recycle symbol (see right)."
Here is some information from the USU Extension Service regarding "Fumigation with Dry Ice Prior to Storage":
"Prevent Insect Infestations
To prevent insect infestations in bulk foods, keep all stored foods in tight, clean, metal, plastic, or glass insect-proof containers that have tight fitting lids and no open seams or crevices. Store food off the floor and away from damp areas.
Fumigation with Dry Ice Prior to Storage
To fumigate home stored wheat or similar products, spread about 2 ounces of crushed dry ice on 3 or 4 inches of grain in the bottom of the container, then add the remaining grain to the can until it is at the desired depth. If fumigating large quantities use 14 ounces for 100 pounds of grain or 1 pound of dry ice for each 30 gallons of stored grain. At approximately 75 cents a pound for dry ice the cost of fumigating is reasonable.
Since the fumes from vaporizing dry ice are heavier than air, they should readily replace the existing air in the container. Allow sufficient time for the dry ice to evaporate (vaporize) before placing the lid on all the way (approximately 30 minutes). The lid should not be made tight until the dry ice has pretty well vaporized and has replaced the regular air. Then it can be placed firmly on the container and sealed.
Should pressure cause bulging of the can after the lid has been put in place, remove the lid cautiously for a few minutes and then replace it. If using plastic bags in the can, don’t seal the bags until the dry ice has vaporized. Carbon dioxide will stay in the container for some time, provided the container lid is tight. When practical, follow the above procedure in a dry atmosphere to reduce the condensation of moisture in the bottom of the can.
Dry ice tends to control most adult and larval insects present, but probably will not destroy all the eggs or pupae. If a tight fitting lid is placed firmly on the container after the dry ice has vaporized, it may keep enough carbon dioxide inside to destroy some of the eggs and pupae. After 2 to 3 weeks another fumigation with dry ice may be desirable to destroy adult insects which have matured from the surviving eggs and pupae.
If properly done, these two treatments should suffice. Yearly treatments are not indicated unless an infestation is recognized."
(Source: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/FN_502.pdf, pg. 12)